Boots on the ground in Portland Maine !!!
Having traveled what feels like every square mile of the USA, and satisfied my need see what needed to be seen, I have started to revisit places I have been, but in hindsight, feel I did not see as well as I thought I could have, and was left with the nagging need to return. Portland was one such place where there was some unfinished business, namely a return to Holy Donuts, a very popular and well known place on Exchange Street that advertises making a "potato based donut" which I did not try or take all that seriously last time I was there, probably because I don't care for donuts all that much. But adding to the sense of importance this time around was my nice little photo essay on Voodoo Donuts in Portland Oregon and the need for a comparative study of these two bi-coastal cousins. Also, I have been craving a bowl of the amazing fish stew at this little dockside place called Gilbert's that looms large in my memory. So return to Portland we did, and much to my surprise, little if anything had changed in the past 4 years since we were last there, and in fact the 4 places I had in mind to visit were all still there, in the same place, and were just as good, if not better than I remembered. One exception was the donut place which I didn't experience first hand last time around, but which still looked good, was quite crowded, and held out great expectations.
My first clue that I might be in for disappointment at the Holy Donut in Portland Maine was the reaction on a local guy down by the pier. When I asked him for directions, his first reaction was "Why do you want to go there? They're not too good.", but he did point me in the right direction. I got a similar reaction from another local who, after asking me if I was ok since I appeared to look lost and confused on some street corner, which seems to be happening a lot more frequently lately. I told him I was fine, just trying to find Holy Donut. He told me not to bother, but pointed me in the right direction nevertheless.
So far, so good. The place was packed, the products were colorful and appealing looking. Jackie got a lemon glazed donut which she found heavy and dry, making her feel like she was eating a day old donut. Jackie overheard a woman sitting near her expressing displeasure with her donut which she said tasted dense, old and not all that good tasting, although she did like the taste and feel of her husband's blueberry donut a lot better. So it's mixed reviews on Holy Donut. Maybe next time around, if there is one, I will buy a couple to taste test, although I didn't have one at Voodoo in the other Portland, so what would be the point.
YES Books, a great used book store was still there unchanged, stocked with great old editions, and redolent with that unique smell of mustiness and old leather characteristic of a good purveyor of old editions. I'm sure if you dropped me off blindfolded in a good used book store, I would know where I was. The owner was still a man of few words indifferent to small talk if it's not about books since conversation with chatty tourists just looking around doesn't pay the bills. Realizing this I did make a few purchases.
Next stop was Gilbert's for a bowl of their fish chowder of which I had fond memories. Sitting at the bar, a good place to sit when eating alone, and if there is a bar, I had pint of some local brew and more conversation than I counted on when it was noticed that I was not a regular and was probably just passing through. The woman next to me complimented my choice of the stew and telling me how very good it was, and indeed she was right. It was extra delicious, better than I remembered, richer, a bit thicker, and with a definite hint of sherry which I didn't remember. I am usually disappointed when reliving a dining experience. Things are rarely as good as you remember, but in this case it was better. Go to Gilbert's.
Would have taken a picture of the chowder, but as good as it tasted, it was just a white liquid in a white bowl with some oysterettes floating on top, and not at all photogenic, so a picture would not have done it justice.
On to The Standard Bakery which was also just as I remembered it. Very solid, very standard, and no frills. I'm sure the counter staff found me quite annoying, trying to ignore me and pretend that the idiot with the camera was not there, and then left without buying anything. But they couldn't have know that I had just come from Gilbert's and couldn't eat another thing. I can be very persistent when I need to be when I'm in my photojournalistic mode and usually get what I need, sometimes at the risk of harm to life and limb, particularly when it turns out that the object of my interest is an establishment owned by an immigrant. The paranoia is quite understandable in this day and age, and I do feel guilty if I unsettle these people.
And to round out this little whirlwind revisitation of Portland Maine are a couple of photos of things on walls, which does seem to be the thing I enjoy taking pictures of most.
A very interesting place, still very connected to the sea, but also home to a very artistic and active counterculture. A place that tastes good and looks good. If you go to Holy Donuts, blueberry seems to be the best bet.
Pablo
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