Taos New Mexico

There was a time when Taos was a magical and culturally important place that drew some of America's great thinkers and artistic talent to its fold, even if just for a season or two.  For millennia before that, the size and expanse of the Native American pueblo, which is still quite active, is testament to the fact that there was something extraordinary about the town.  I remember that feeling when first visiting there 25 or 26 years ago.  But that was then, and this is now.  Now, the most you can say about the place, and a number of people said it, it that it is a great place to retire, and indeed the place is over run with boomers looking for someplace to remain relevant and live out the fortunate fantasy that has been their lives.  It is no exaggeration that absolutely every place of business in Taos is a restaurant, gift shop, boutique, or home decor store.  If this sounds familiar, I did say the same thing recently about Truckee, California.  Once you max out your credit card, there is absolutely nothing to do in Taos.

Maybe I exaggerate a bit, you can also pray. If you are Jewish, Chabad has recently put down roots there.

Other than that, the only place that seems authentically part of the more recent old Taos of the 1930's and 40's  is the Taos inn,  a place that has maintained its charm, aura and sense of place and where you truly expect to see Georgia O'Keeffe, D.H. Lawerence, Ernest Hemingway, or John Reed, or at least Johnny Depp, walk in.  But alas, it was just a bunch of people like me, older and drunker, because the artists had fled years ago.  Still, found myself at home, drinking, eating anything with green chile on it and getting the vibe.

Other than that, there was not much to say except you should check it out if you are in the area and let me know what you think.  Was not really inspired to take many pictures in a place that I have come to find tedious, sorry.  Although I was pleased to find Paul's Bar still there on the outskirts of town .  Took a black and white photo years ago but Paul's still appears closed and still looks good.

Other than that, it was good to see that an old friend like Ricky's is still there.  I had some great green chile and beans which were a meal I remember well, but this time I was kind of full as we passed it on the way out of town and did not stop in.

And last but surely not least was my visit to the Mabel Dodge Luhan House, now a museum and monument to one of the great patrons and supporters of the arts and anything subversive from the 1930's on.  She moved to Taos after her 3rd of 4th marriage, and being quite wealthy and interesting in her own right opened her home there to a wide variety of artists and thinkers who took advantage of her largess with fascinating results, as per her biography.  Check her out, it is quite a story.  Took this picture on the property of one of the out buildings where visitors stayed.  The complex is vast and difficult to catch in a picture or two, but this gives you some idea...

  Other than that, not much to report, except to add this photo of one of the hundreds of galleries selling mostly oversized, undistinguished art at unaffordable prices...

Wish there was more to say about Taos, but the current state of affairs is dismal.  Glad to be hitting the road and spending a few days in Chimayo.  Till then..

  

                                                                                Pablo